I am actually having a similar issue as well. Chasing the 345 349 codes. I did plugs yesterday and it smoothed the whole truck out to the point that I don't have the shudder at 45-50 mph, only a slight shake but not enough to throw a misfire. I did notice on mine that the running voltage hovers between 13.2-13.9v. I would expect a normal alternator to put out 14.4v constant and I know that Ford mentions in the pinpoint tests for cam sensors, a malfunctioning alternator can produce those codes. I don't want to drop $100 on a new one but may be worth a try.

the alternator huh....the code I got the other day said something about battery out of range before all this started happening....I'm stalling at traffic lights ..truck runs fine...

Mine did that (stalling, and refuse to idle) right after I finished the last plugs #3 and 4.... When I looked back there I noticed that #4 injector harness had gotten crimped in the cop mount. I pulled it loose and repaired the bad spot. Took care of the issue.

My wife and i Bought a 2008 f350 5.4 gas engine super duty a year ago. about 2.5 months ago the check engine light came on while going down the road and it losses power. We have replaced Coils, plugs, fuel sensors, injectors, timing positioning sensor, cam shaft sensor, coil connectors, checked the wire harness, and replaced a bad wire in that mess. still saying miss in cylender 1 and check engine still coming on and still has loss of power. we had a code one time had a misscomuntction with the EPM/ECM. we checked the compression on the cylenders everything was fine. pressure on fuel rack was also fine. can someone please help here

What code is it throwing now?

My truck is having the same issues, code p0345 p0349. A little background is in order. Two and half years ago (2013), the timing chain guide fail, the chain ate a hole thru the timing cover, had to change the timing cover, guides, chain, gear sprocket, both phasers , plugs, coils, MAF sensor. The truck run great for 25000 miles, then the phaser on driver’s side started making a chain noise, not much but only at start up.
So I decide to change the VCT solenoids to see it that help in October last year, it seen to get better but only for a short in, no codes. So in December I had the driver’s side Cam Phaser change out, then it throw a code p0345. The truck ran great other than the code coming up. I drove it for just over 700 miles, as I was leaving work, I step into the pedal and it was as the engine started bogging down with loss of power. At 600 rpm, it would try to cut off. The engines throw so codes: p0011 p0022 p0171 p0175 p2198 p0305.
I put it back in the shop, they changed out the VCT solenoids again, and telling me the screens was missing. Now the codes are p0345 p0349, the mechanic tells me that I need an ECM. He said there is no 5v ref coming from the ECM to the cam sensor on driver’s side, has 5v ref on right side of engine but not on left side. He said he checks it at the ECM and nothing was coming from the wire for that sensor. Not sure what to do now.

update: since driving the truck over the past few weeks, the codes just clear up and the truck runs better. I am now lost on what is going on:-huh

Good luck! (Posted in wrong thread.... it's not so mobile friendly)

My 2005 F150 5.4L would only shake, rattle, and stall after warming up. I've had this issue off and on the past 4 or 5 years and it was fixed last after an oil change by a Ford Dealership I asked to look into the issue. I saw the post about changing the oil to 15/40. I changed the oil and have driven it for several hours on more than one day and the issue has not returned. I'm sure there are many other causes for this piece of crap by Ford, but low oil pressure was most certainly my issue. BTW, the Ford dealer said I needed a new engine and quoted me about $7,500 not including labor, taxes, or any other "fees".

Ford F-150
 

Guys I have the same problem.. see I did the timming chains the oil pump water pump phasers coils new plugs everything... Ones in a while it also idles rough ... Hit the gas and it goes away.. it is safe to drive like this I mean it drives good

Yes mines is a 04 lariat V8 3 valve

Camshaft position sensor bank2 and circuit
 

I have a 2008 Ford F350 with a 5.4 3 valve I keep getting the code for camshaft position sensor circuit and disconnection with PCM and loss of voltage I have put a new time and chain on new phase er's new sensors checked wire harness I don't know what else to do please help

This is a very old thread ,start a new one --list all codes
 

Camshaft position sensor bank2 and circuitI have a 2008 Ford F350 with a 5.4 3 valve I keep getting the code for camshaft position sensor circuit and disconnection with PCM and loss of voltage I have put a new time and chain on new phase er's new sensors checked wire harness I don't know what else to do please help

List all raw codes . Tell all fixes ,did you use oem parts . Miles ???Aftermarket phasers junk . Its not usually the sensors , Its understanding what they are indicating . Don'y shoot the messenger. Symptoms ? Miles ? Noise . Misfiring? How often did you change oil .
Clean engine out with motor flush ,then change VCTS use syn 5w-20. VCTS are controlled by PCM with electrical pulses ,that releases dirty engine oil to phasers moving cams . Small passages and screens get clogged with dirt from oil which is engine carbon . Yours is indicating its not where it is supposed to be . This hydraulic circuit must be kept clean. Any aftermarket parts are not good in engine they work too hard . Phasers fail within days . VCTS too. This is the common problem but you could have wire damage from rodents too early to tell.
Not enough info at this point .

Sorry i just read this one.
 

i dont have the codes right now. Ill get them. It has 144440 miles. Fresh oil change. New timing chain, new phasers, new belt, new vcts, new cps. All oem. Only aftermarket is k&n air filiter. It runs good. Not that great on gas mileage but not to bad either. It was having trouble starting but i fixed a bad cable going to starter. Battery is good and so is alternator. The codes i remember is camshaft position sensor b2, camshaft position sensor circuit banks 2, camshaft position sensor intermediate, low voltage, and loses contact with pcm, and something about vin number. How do i do the motor flush right?

oh yeah. It has a slight ticking on driver side

I just use the walmart motor flush .Some guys let it run the 5 min and set overnight then drain it. Some use flush /then cheap oil and redo in a week ,depends on how dirty it is .Some have repeated this more than a few times . I run 1 quart marvel mystery oil with my oil it seems to be a good slow cleaner.
I do a flush every other oil change . I use good quality 5w-30 syn . You must dump it before 5k/4 months ,gotta get that carbon out of there . Vcts are new design and will do good even if replaced before timing job . The best job means a new oil pump ,melling has a new hv one that came out last fall . when I did mine I used the melling 360 .Anytime guides were broken you must drop oil pan and clean out oil pickup it will be full of plastic fibers from guides, oil pan gaskets reusable ,but must use sealant on all metal joints . I had to do lashs and rollers as mine threw no 8 intake roller to side ,it is recommended anyway .Lashs are hard to test and both lashs and rollers have been redesigned and are high wear items .Getting timing cover off is a pain, its worth it to me not to try and go back another time . Plus all the fluids and throwaway bolts /sealant/ gaskets is not cheap. Some ticking and noises come from lash and rollers .
I make it easy and just pull cams to do timing job ,its not hard but all parts must go back exactly how they came out same place and orientation.